Path Of The Gods L Hiking The Amalfi Coast’s Most Gorgeous Trek
I see my path, however I don’t know where it leads. Not knowing where I’m going stone island jeans straight leg is what evokes me to travel it. – Rosalia de Castro
Sure, I knew that the path of the Gods — also referred to as Il Sentiero degli Dei — technically led to Positano; nonetheless, I had no idea what journey lay ahead. And as someone who has now skilled the trail for herself, I can tell you this hike is one Amalfi Coast experience that’s not overrated.
While trying to analysis easy methods to hike the path of the Gods, my boyfriend Andy and I discovered a plethora of data on out there tours, but probably not a step-by-step guide with a private account of the experience.
So, I determined to create one myself. Since you won’t need to overlook adding this to your Amalfi Coast itinerary.
Check out my entire Italy trip video above
Bomerano, not far from the bus cease. What’s essential to know if you’re taking the bus is it’ll say “Agerola” or “Agerola (Bomerano).”
I like to recommend both staying in the city of Amalfi or taking the scenic ferry there. Once in Amalfi, grab the 25-minute bus to Bomerano.
*Note for clarification: The Amalfi Coast is made up of varied coastal towns, with Amalfi being one of these towns. Amalfi Coast is the region; Amalfi is a city inside the area.
If you’re driving you possibly can merely plug Path of the Gods into Google Maps and it comes up. Click here to seize a pin of the free parking lot right near the trailhead. When you park, walk and comply with Google Maps — and the signs for “Il Sentiero degli Dei” that start showing.
Signage tells you the place to find the trail
Beginning Of The Path
At first this 5-mile hike feels very residential, as you cross terraced farmland dotted with houses growing wine grapes, tomatoes, wheat and extra. The panorama takes me again to years before when I’d hiked the Longji Rice Terraces in China, with sloped hillside winding like a vibrant green snake.
Starting of the path of the Gods trail
Wine grapes alongside the trail
On this beginning section it’s straightforward to neglect we’re on the coast, because it feels more like Ecuadorian cloud forest than the Italian coast. As we transfer farther along the path although, the view becomes extra layered, a number of hillsides saying hi there together with pockets of the sparkling Gulf of Salerno and of Naples.
Terraced hillside alongside the trail
History Of The path Of The Gods
We additionally go through the “Grotta del Biscotto,” the place abandoned centuries-previous stone homes sit embedded into the cliff. Scents of thyme, laurel and rosemary waft through the air — typical plants of Agerola you’ll even discover in the native meals.
Grotta del Biscotto
According to the new York Instances, the trail was “carved out by Greek settlers within the eighth century B.C. and later used by those dwelling in secluded monasteries.”
By way of the title, the Star Tribute notes the trail was given its title by Italian historian and politician Giustino Fortunato within the mid-1800s. It stems from the gorgeous views of the sparkling waters and the island of Capri, not to mention the mythological historical past. Truly, the story goes that gods came down from heaven to the trail to achieve the sea and its “sirens” that sang in an attempt to seduce Ulysses, the king of a small island in the Ionian sea (Ithaca).
Lush Green To Sparkling Blue
Strolling the trail of the Gods, it’s straightforward to see why the gods might have chosen it to visit. A steep roadway quickly leads to another ascent, Via Santa Domenica, with multiple religious odes like crosses and nativity scenes.
The panorama is continually changing
An eerie view alongside the path of the Gods
Whereas I went into the trek knowing I’d see the water, I had no idea just how usually the panorama and views would change; sometimes barely, other instances dramatically. Whereas one second I’m trying out over gnarled brush, the subsequent the sea is sparkling with ripples of hillside past it.
Then there could be lush green and delicious plants, followed by a coated forest with a ground coated in leaves or a shady cave.
Out of the blue, the trail turns cavernous
Turning one other corner, I could be standing beside a monolith 5 instances my measurement, gazing out at a random tree that jogs my memory of the Dragons Bloods of Yemen.
I’m no botanist, however this reminded me of Yemen’s Dragon Blood Timber
Wildlife on the path
In fact, when near anything with height my rock climber boyfriend Andy feels the necessity to ascend it. Really though, there are rock climbing routes. I tried rock climbing in Croatia and liked it, although looking at the rocky ground and steep drop offs here makes my palms sweat.
Quickly the highlight of the vista turns into the sea, our end level of Positano in view. So close but to this point, as we still have just a few hours — and lots of stairs — to go.
There are many stairs alongside the trek
Positano in the gap
Still, Positano’s gorgeous pastel-coloured houses embedded into the terraced cliff side are gorgeous, and are sufficient motivation to propel us past the uphill climbs.
There are also tiles with uplifting panels mounted onto the rock face. Moreover, numbers depend down letting us know when we’ve completed another kilometer; which is great, as a result of there are 7.8 in whole!
Signs counting down the kilometers
Again into the woods
To be trustworthy, most of the trail is flat, with sections of uneven stone steps. At no level am I gasping for breath, although I wouldn’t call it easy either.
What may make you gasp are among the viewpoints positioned precariously close to sheer drop-offs extending a half-mile down (learn: this is not for the vertigo-prone!). I exit onto just a few, but stay far back sufficient to keep vertigo at bay.
We see precariously placed homes that seem like the small edge of earth mustn’t hold them, and that the ledge ought to tumble down, however it stays strong.
I imagine I can fly (don’t fear; not really!)
Consistently, Andy and I wonder if we’d have the ability to dwell the way in which these cliffside-dwellers lived — and nonetheless do. Rounding every nook a new, more beautiful view appears, which I can’t think about ever getting previous.
Homes on the hillside
Nonetheless, there’s no denying this was — and is — a resilient tradition. Regardless of tough, uneven terrain, centuries of individuals have pushed forward to make the land habitable. And never solely that; however prosperous too with vineyards, lemon groves and vegetable gardens seeming to dangle over the gulf. When they should travel, mules are used for transport.
However not all of the properties are occupied. Whereas we knew we’d see gorgeous sea views, we didn’t count on to seek out ruins with doors that ominously invite us in. Inside, taking a look at piles of broken wood, I try to imagine who may have inhabited these buildings and what they did inside.
What was obvious: whoever spent time in this house had an insane vista. I imply, simply have a look at this:
Would you live on a precarious-looking cliff edge in the event you had a beautiful view
Standing atop an previous home embedded into the hillside
View of Positano. So shut but to date!
Up and up we climb, getting to nearer to the sky as we’re typically scrambling over boulders, different instances taking small steps up tree trunks-turned-stairs. The upper we go towards the mushroom clouds, the extra patterns I see; not just in the heavens, however within the winding paths below. Wild shapes take form with outstretched branches and timber meeting the anchored yachts and day boats leisurely floating.
Vertigo-inducing viewpoint (there are various of these!)
A bit trail yoga
While for a while we stroll beneath the solar, there are times when we’re utterly shaded underneath timber, leaves protecting ground once gowned in dust and rock. Then, a bird’s-eye view of Capri would appear.
A Spritz Stop
Back by the forest we climb; and again down the stone steps we descend.
Finally we come to a shaded space where an adorable orange cat walks in entrance of what should be a hundred+ cairns.
Cairns alongside the trail
Cute kitty along the trail
While I do know you shouldn’t make cairns — remember when hiking to at all times leave no hint — I do snap a photo to seize the awe-inspiring feeling. In the still quiet, it’s abundantly clear others have come earlier than me, some today, some centuries ago. Apparently, in late August we’re virtually the only ones on the path.
At 463 meters excessive we reach the “Grotte,” the place we swap dirt path for rocky climb. Even better, it’s only 0.15 kilometers to Nocelle, which many hikers treat as the end of the trek.
Signs directing us to Nocelle
Goodbye dirt, hello boulders
At two hours in I’m starving and needing energy. Luckily, as we attain Nocelle a small restaurant constructed into the hillside — a gorgeous terrace jutting out over the emptiness — comes into view. There’s no name on the door (I discover out by Fb test-in it’s known as Il Chiosco), however a chalkboard sign boasts mojitos, homemade limoncello and, most importantly, Aperol Spritz.
Our sweaty our bodies and drained limbs don’t want coaxing. We walk proper in, through a dark room with three locals hanging out as if in their residing room. They level to the terrace, and as we step out onto it our jaws literally drop.
A Spritz + a view!
The restaurant’s garden was literally proper next to my seat
It helps that the Spritz’ and paninis we order are scrumptious; although, even in the event that they hadn’t been this restaurant would have been a worthy stop. Sitting on the sting, virtually dangling off the mountain, we sip and snack in silence, in awe of how small we feel as the valley seems to swallow us up.
A Good distance Down
I’m so thankful to have stopped for the Spritz, as Andy and i quickly discover ourselves strolling down round 1500 steps (it’s someplace between a thousand and 1700, relying who you ask). If you’re thinking “at least it wasn’t up 1,000 steps,” I wish I had a video of how shaky my legs had been with each forward descent.
Just a leisurely walk down about 1500 steps. No biggie!
However no less than there’s a view!
Soon, we find ourselves jogging down, just desirous to get this final stretch finished with.
Abruptly, though, we notice the indicators to Positano have disappeared, and we spill out into the town of Arienzo.
After asking a few locals, we realize the path doesn’t continue as a trek, per say, however by walking down the winding coastal Amalfi Drive.
You just need to stroll down this lovely however precarious highway to reach Positano
The lovely but slender Amalfi Drive
Picture a coastal region stuffed with NASCAR drivers with a loss of life wish, bounding around hairpin turns. The sidewalks throughout this leg are super skinny, so we must keep alert. Whereas slightly harrowing, it’s the best way of the coast, and the drivers, while seemingly crazy, are also seemingly aware of pedestrians.
We breathe a sigh of relief as we stroll onto a winding highway lined with upscale shops and gluten-free cafes. Posh Positano is gorgeous, and I love window procuring the unique garments right here. Realistically, nevertheless, it’s nearly all out of my budget.
Isn’t Positano lovely
One spot we fall in love with is Liquid Art, a gallery with uber-inspiring pieces that trick your vision. Paper flowers poke out from the wall, airbrushed hues of purple transforming to green as I tilt my head to the best in front of them. Three ballerinas start dancing as I walk by, and a man crafted from marble appears to be breaking by way of a gallery wall, solely choose limbs in movement visible.
Next door, their sculpture backyard offers an al fresco expertise, and we continue having fun with the sun by strolling to the seashore.
Now, an afternoon at the seaside is at all times welcome; but think about how good the Tyrrhenian Sea waters feel on skin that’s just trekked up and down a mountain for 3 hours. We aren’t simply having fun with a seaside; we earned this beach, and we savor every minute of the swim.
A new View
We skip the bus and instead choose to take the scenic ferry for eight Euros back to Amalfi. Conveniently, a takeaway cocktail stand sits simply in front of the ferry dock. Aperol Spritz’ in hand, we board the ferry and sit on its upper deck during the 25-minute experience to the city of Amalfi.
Spritz iPhone selfie on the ferry
While the path of the Gods offered a gorgeous view looking out onto the sea and down the cliffside, the ferry allows us to actually take in the challenge we’ve simply achieved.
My drained muscles inform what I’d achieved strolling the path of the Gods, however gazing out over the mountain, the elevated terraced slopes in view, I feel each proud of myself for my accomplishment and thankful for the chance to accomplish it.
In case you love energetic adventure on a funds — we spent about $20 USD for a big salami and cheese panini and two cocktails + about $18 USD for 2 ferry tickets — then you definately won’t want to miss this unbelievable hike.
Pricing: The hike is free. No tour is needed, although they are available.
Physical Health: The path of the Gods is a reasonable hike. Anybody in relatively good shape can full it. There are definitely challenging sections because of the rough terrain and plenty of steps, however if you love being active you’ll be effective.
Packing: For this hike, ensure that to pack:
– 2 liters of water
– Face wipes (non-compulsory; but it’s refreshing to wipe your sweaty face with them during the hike, especially with these coconut wipes)
– A bathing swimsuit (I love Unique Vintage)
– A digital camera
– Sunscreen / SPF chapstick
– Sunglasses / Hat
– Cash (for transportation and food along the way in which)
Attending to The Amalfi Coast: We rented a automobile in Florence and drove to Tuscany, Umbria and the Amalfi Coast. It was just about all a straightforward, satisfying drive till the Amalfi Coast, which is scenic but harrowing with the loopy traffic circles and fast-paced hairpin turns. Among the roads are so narrow we would burst out laughing whereas additionally freaking out about how we’d realistically go through them (watch this clip from Grasp of None at minute four:15 for a similar expertise).
Otherwise, you can get there by utilizing Italy’s dependable train stone island jeans straight leg system. For practice journey in Europe I like GoEuro, which is commonly cheaper and less complicated than booking by way of the precise train corporations. E-book prematurely for cheaper charges.
Take the train to Naples. From right here, you possibly can take a bus, prepare or ferry, relying on your vacation spot.
Getting Round: In terms of public transportation on the Amalfi Coast, there is a reliable bus service as well as a ferry service. Taxis are additionally accessible. Observe: None of those options run all night time, so examine the ending instances of your routes so you’re not stranded. This happened to Andy and that i in Vietru Sul Mar, although luckily our waiter was form enough to call his uncle to select us up and provides us a trip dwelling (I kid you not!).
Foreign money: Euro
– Understand that in lots of locations there will be an additional cost for sitting at a desk.
– Notice that you don’t must tip — service is typically included — though you possibly can go away 5-10% if you want
– Whereas within the US if a restaurant serves a snack that was not asked for, like bread or peanuts, it’s secure to assume it’s complimentary. In Italy although we frequently charged a couple of Euros for these. When you don’t want them, say so.
Language: Whereas many locals converse English, it’s useful to know some Italian. Not less than know a number of widespread Italian phrases.
Accommodation: We discovered Airbnb to be really reasonably priced with tons of great choices — many with views, gardens and patios. Get $40 off your first Airbnb with this hyperlink.
SIM Cards: Whereas you should buy your SIM card from the airport, I like to recommend purchasing it inside the town of your first stay. This way, if there’s a problem you may return to the place you truly purchased it to get assist.
I sadly purchased mine from the Milan Airport, and wasn’t instructed you’re imagined to not touch your cellphone until you obtain a sure textual content message (which is in Italian). I used up my forty-Euro bundle — which should have lasted my entire 10-day journey — in less than an hour attributable to this error and needed to re-purchase one, as a result of the Vodafone consultant in Venice (the primary metropolis visited on the Italy journey after touchdown in Milan) instructed me the airport wasn’t affiliated with his shop.