8 Key Men’s Style Developments For Autumn/Winter 2017
Overused menswear saying #248: “Fashions fade, fashion is eternal”. Whereas Yves Saint Laurent had some extent (no properly-edited wardrobe is full without the classics), there’s nothing mistaken with snapping up just a few sizzling pieces that mark you out as a man with his finger on the pulse.
Thankfully, AW17 is not short of them, and some may even have the legs to go the gap for seasons to return (all the extra motive to take a position). To illustrate, with the assistance of a few of the industry’s most qualified men, listed below are eight style moves to convince you that ‘trend’ isn’t such a dirty word after all.
For many guys, the autumn/winter months are prime time for retreating into a world of darkish neutral tones. And we get it; who needs to wrestle with making a vibrant yellow jumper work as nicely as the central heating controls
However doing so doesn’t must imply turning the saturation of your wardrobe as much as max. Instead, strive darker shades of typically summer tones, like moss inexperienced. It nonetheless counts as a color, but just isn’t offensively bright and is oh so easy to put on.
“I assume men underestimate how effectively darker greens work in an outfit,” says stylist Nas Abraham, who has labored with the likes of Mr Porter, Hugo Boss and Barbour. “It breaks up dreary black, navy and gray and provides a contact of daringness.”
While olive is common for streetwear (assume bombers, cargo trousers and military shirts) moss green has a smarter attraction, especially when paired with black. “Choose this hue for merino sweaters, tailoring or outerwear and pair with your ordinary darkish staples,” adds Abraham.
If looking good is all about how you are feeling, then it makes sense that this is the season when designers get in contact with their emotions. (Disclaimer: we’re talking about supplies, you can put away the tissues.)
Alongside eternally appealing shearling and the party season staple of velvet, tactile winter fabrics such as herringbone and (more surprisingly) corduroy are here to make AW17 really feel simply as good to touch because it does to have a look at.
“With this trend, it’s a case of in for a penny in for a pound,” says male mannequin Richard Biedul. “A corduroy go well with [looks best with] a fuller silhouette and a slight rise on the trouser (and a healthy two inch flip up).
“If that sounds too Starsky and Hutch for you, attempt working one or two textured items into your outfit and go for a delicate color palette corresponding to navy or green.”
The last time winter whites had been a ‘thing’, East 17 messed every little thing up, and few have dared to tread the same sartorial path since. Designers this season, however, have forgotten this epic fail and are prepared to offer the palest shades another attempt.
Think cream, off-white, stone and, erm, white (clearly), and you’re heading in the right direction. Certain, this is probably not a pattern to strive whereas tucking into a plate of bolognese, but if menswear’s most stylish can overlook dubious practicality, then so can we.
Mastering winter whites is as much to do with texture as colour according to Alex Discipline, head of menswear design at Reiss. “In summer time you want gentle, sharp and crisp optic whites, but winter whites needs to be made from warm and delicate-handle fabrics.
“Think cashmere crew and roll necks, mushy moleskin or corduroy trousers and brushed or boiled overcoats. Winter whites will ideally give freshness and add life to in any other case dark outfits.”
Excellent news for anybody who can remember the nineteen nineties from the primary time round: one of the best bits from the decade are well and truly back. The bad information These a long time at the moment are considered ‘nostalgia’ territory – a brutal reality check for anybody born around that time.
Proof that some tendencies can final for a couple of season; frosted tips and bootcut denims have been left in the past (phew), whereas the laid-again sportswear motion that has been bubbling beneath the surface has been dragged totally into 2017. Which means you can look good, really feel comfortable and break right into a sprint at a moment’s discover. That is menswear that multitasks.
“We’ve seen an ever-rising revival in nineties festival and streetwear in recent seasons,” says Topman creative director Gordon Richardson. “Guys aren’t afraid to put on matching co-ord tracksuits in vibrant prints or cross-body bumbags, and reproduction retro sneakers have grow to be a wardrobe staple.”
Whether or not you go head-to-toe tracksuit or just nod to nostalgia with some gum-sole kicks, at all times look to balance extra casual items out with smarter gadgets like an overcoat or roll neck.
The unwritten rule of vogue has it that every trend will eventually be adopted by its opposite. As such, after years of males counting on the stripped-again Scandi look to guide their wardrobe, things are lastly getting a bit chaotic once more.
To affix the early-adopters of menswear’s new-discovered confidence, make a statement with your top half (belief us, it’s means much less dangerous than patterned trousers). Main the way in which this season is knitwear with ironically unsubtle logos and patterns more experimental than your average science lab.
“The key with assertion anything is ensuring that the assertion gets heard,” says Tom Banham from men’s private procuring service Thread. “If you anchor a loud piece with quiet, neutral staples then you possibly can flip down its volume and nonetheless make an impression.”
Earlier than you go all gung-ho along with your statement-making, make sure to think about fabric as well as print. “Choose prints or graphics in a texture that mutes them just a little. In chilly weather particularly, a sample stone island jacket with goggles on wool or knitted cotton feels much less in-your-face than the identical factor on satin. There’s a positive line between making your self heard and being obnoxious.”
In conserving with AW17’s tendency to swerve something remotely boring, color is cropping up in the final place you’d expect: on tailoring. After all, we’re not suggesting you gown like a walking put up box in your subsequent job interview (go away that to Jared Leto). Instead, merely open your eyes to the world of tailoring beyond gray, navy and black.
Consider taupe, powder blue, teal and camel. It’s the simplest way to face out in a sea of samey suits and can make transitioning to the after-hours markedly simpler.
“The cause color in tailoring has grow to be so standard is all a part of a wider rebellion towards ‘dressing norms’ for men,” explains Giles Farnham, head of the River Island Style Studio, who adds that mastering this colourful rebellion is just a matter of selecting the precise shades for your complexion.
“Rich, autumnal hues work properly for any pores and skin tone; try teaming a deep emerald green or burgundy go well with with a slim fitting roll neck or crew neck T-shirt. Color works effectively with texture, too. This season’s corduroy seems great in rust or blue or, for a extra formal look, try a knitted tie matched to the color of your go well with with a crisp white shirt.”
After years of second-skin menswear, each skilled value his salt was banging on in regards to the rise of oversized suits and but it by no means quite appeared to catch on. Until now. This summer, Love Island and its male contestants’ love of alarmingly tight denim lastly killed off any morsel of credibility the tremendous-skinny look had left.
Waiting within the wings is a cooler solid of oversized menswear items, which are way more forgiving on these who’re nearer to dad bod than Greek god. Relaxed-leg trousers, knitwear with inflated proportions, cocoon-like coats; in terms of form and quantity this season, extra is most undoubtedly more.
The right way to Put on
“If you need to purchase into greater proportions but are uncertain for those who go well with the look, opt for sober colours and put on on a day your confidence is riding high,” suggests superstar stylist Phill Tarling, who has dressed the likes of Tom Hardy.
As for what oversized gear ought to be on your buying checklist, Tarling advises beginning with outerwear. “You can waterproof your autumn/winter wardrobe by investing in an extended rain mac. You might seem like a Scandinavian fisherman on the morning commute, however you’ll be on-trend and keep dry even on extremely drizzly days.”
Printed Silk Shirts
Three words no fashionable man in his right mind ought to ever utter: ‘going out shirt’. Thankfully, this season’s designers have made tasteful work out of considered one of menswear’s most divisive objects. The more shocking reality is that the very best examples are printed and made from silk.